2005 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Domaine Bonneau du Martray
96/100 John Gilman:
Happily, this bottle of 2005 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne was absolutely pristine and was showing young and magically, delivering a deep and utterly superb nose of peach, pear, iodine, chalky minerality, pastry cream, white flowers and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and quite vibrant, with a rock solid core, laser-like focus and simply stellar length and grip on the racy finish. No signs of premox here in this utterly stunning wine! (Drink between 2014-2035)
My birthday celebration night in Hong Kong moved on from Moët & Chandon and Dom Pérignon 2000 to a 2005 Bonneau de Martray Corton-Charlemange, which is an old favorite of mine for great white Burgundy. I often say that great Corton-Charlemagne is a red wine masquerading as a white wine because it can be so structured and textured. This 2005 was certainly like that. Some say that Bonneau de Martray went down in quality in the 1990s but then came back in the 2000s. The 2005 that we drank was excellent quality. It was a tightly structured white with sliced apples, lemon meringue and an exquisite cream character. It was full body and silky-textured, showing a dense and beautiful palate. It still needs at least two or three years to open and show its true quality.
Lovely smoky nose with real richness underneath. Charming breadth but no lack of tension. Not fat at all though very intense. Powerful and mineral. Opened five days ago. Apparently it tastes just the same. Very fresh and firm and with great spine.
|Côte de Beaune (FR)
Robert Parker 95